Mystical Iceland

Waterfall near Kirkjubæjarklaustur, Iceland. The wind prevents the water from flowing straight down. May, 2026

I’m writing this note from Reykjavik, Iceland, a country that has me under its spell. My third trip, I leave in three days and have already created a list of activities for my next adventure. A country of 405,000 people, it’s about the size of the state of Kentucky. Ingólfr Arnarson, a Norse Chieftain, is recognized as Reykjavik’s first settler in 874 AD.  Although, ancient Icelandic texts mention that Irish monks (the Papar) may have settled here before 870 AD, but left when the Norse arrived.

Tribute to Ingolfur Arnaholl Reykjavík's first settler. By sculptor Einar Jónsson. May, 2026

One of ways I find Iceland to be extraordinary is its culture based on the ideas of impermanence, resilience, and resourcefulness. Because Mother Nature is takes center stage on a daily basis (I just felt a 4.0 earthquake, 22 km East of Reykjavik 8 minutes ago), Icelanders take things in stride. A common Icelandic saying: ‘Þetta reddast’ which translates to ‘It will be fine’ illustrates this well.  Even in the face of volcano eruptions, earthquakes, hurricane-force winds, midnight sun, polar nights, and bitter cold, Icelanders are a nation of people who keep getting back up, reinventing themselves along the way.

Photo from the 2010 Eyjafjallajökull volcano eruption. Residents evacuate and set their animals free, who rely on instinct to find safey.

A recent eruption in Grindavik (April 2025), was preceded by multiple earthquakes and evacuations. The town’s population was around 3,000. Today, it’s closer to 100, as Mother Nature destroyed most of the town. This eruption sent lava all the way to the Blue Lagoon parking lot but stopped short of the Blue Lagoon. Why?  Because it was too expensive (Icelandic joke!). 

Lava flow in Grindavek 2025

Rather than rebuilding immediately, the Icelandic government worked to relocate and support residents of this small fishing village while they decide on next steps. There are questions as to whether they will ever rebuild here. Working with geologists and other scientists, Iceland’s wise leaders respect Mother Nature. There are many zones across Iceland, some hundreds of miles wide, that will never see development, as they are in the paths of volcanic eruptions and glacial floods. It may not be today, nor next week, nor next year. But these events will happen. 

Icebergs from Glacier Lagoon - May, 2026

The Icelandic Economy has its ups and downs, but it bounces back again and again. These days, the tourism industry is clearly at the top, eclipsing fishing and aluminum processing. The country is led by women (the President, the Prime Minister, the Bishop of Iceland, the National Police Commissioner, the State Prosecutor and the President of the University of Iceland are all women), resulting in a progressive country with policies that support quality of life for all.

Icelandic pool culture is like no other. Most towns have a community pool where residents swim regularly and meet there socially.  Geothermal heat keeps the water warm year-round. Pools also include a cold dip and hot tubs. I was lucky enough to swim a few times at Laugardalslaug, a community pool about a 30-minute walk from my AirBnB.

Stock image of Laugardalslaug, as cell phones are banned anywhere in the pool area, including locker rooms.

One final discovery to share. As a writer, it was important to explore Icelandic authors (translated to English!). I was richly rewarded by the well-known Icelandic author: Ragnar Jonasson. I randomly picked up his novel: Death at the Sanatorium and emerged two days later frantically searching for the sequel (also finished). I’m now reading an older series of his that starts with Snowblind.  He creates interesting characters, brings in fascinating aspects of Icelandic culture, and many of of his novels take place in and around Reykjavik. I find myself googling places he mentions out of curiosity. I highly recommend his books, which I’ve also found on Libby.

My copy of Ragnar’s book. I couldn’t put it down! May, 2026

As I prepare to leave this mystical place, I keep these lessons in mind: 

* Be very clear on where you have control and where you don’t. Spend the most of your energy on places where you have control. You can’t control when the next volcano will erupt, but you can control where you choose to build.

* In the US, we spend a lot of time finding and maintaining comfort. While comfort is nice, it can also hold us back. What if you allowed yourself to be a little uncomfortable to discover something new? It was 40 degrees F (4C) when I stepped out onto the pool deck one cold, cloudy, misty morning, soaking wet from the mandatory pre-swim shower. But once in the 82F water, I was in heaven. I walked home feeling refreshed and energized from that morning swim. 

* The Midnight Sun has me craving the darkness of night. I have no idea what time it is, as it’s always daylight, even at 2 am. I look forward to nightfall and the stars. Icelanders seem to readily navigate this change, but I’m not there yet. A balanced life is both dark and light

Until next time, dear friends. If I’m not writing, I’m likely to be lost in a Ragnar Jonasson novel!

Kirkjubæjarklaustur Canyon - May, 2026

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